Seiko Prospex dive watches have been around for over 50 years, and yet, until recently, they had never released a model with a mechanical GMT movement. But now, Seiko has introduced a brand new series of watches that combines the precision of a mechanical GMT movement with the durability and resilience of a dive watch.
The Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation GMT comes in three different models, two of which are regular editions with green and black dials, respectively. The third model is a limited edition called SPB385 Save The Ocean, which features an eye-catching ice-blue dial. If you’re familiar with Seiko’s 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation, you might notice some similarities with the Marinemaster. In fact, the two models are quite alike, with the sharp angles of the Marinemaster case being a standout feature.
But that’s not a problem at all, as the modern interpretation of the 1968 diver is absolutely stunning in its own right. The combination of the dive watch and GMT complications makes for a technical and practical timepiece that’s perfect for those who love to explore the depths of the ocean or travel the world. The Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation GMT series is a welcome addition to Seiko’s lineup of high-quality timepieces.
The Seiko Prospex SPB381 and SPB383
Now, let’s dive into the two regular models, the SPB381 and SPB383. These watches feature green and black dials, respectively, and both colors complement the gold-colored GMT hand beautifully. The “GMT” text on the dials is another clear indication that these watches are not your typical divers. But do these models really stand out from their non-GMT counterparts? That’s a question that’s up for debate.
Seiko reminds us that these watches are, first and foremost, GMT versions of their divers. They are not entirely different GMT watches. Thus, they are part of the Prospex series, equipped with a 24-hour scale on the rehaut of the dial instead of a 24-hour bezel. While the diving bezel remains intact, it has been slimmed down to increase the dial’s size and incorporate the GMT elements seamlessly.
For those who prioritize specs, these watches have a 42mm stainless steel case, just like their regular diver counterparts. They are water-resistant to 200 meters and have a thickness of 12.9mm, making them slightly thicker than the standard models. The watches feature a ceramic bezel insert and a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp, a security lock, and a diving extension. What really sets them apart, however, is the date placement. The date window is between 4 and 5 o’clock, with the crown slightly above the 4 o’clock position. As Lex explained in his review of the SLA055 and SLA057, the subtle misalignment of the date placement is something to behold.
The Seiko Prospex SPB385
The first thing you’ll notice about these new models is their impressive 24-hour scale on the rehaut, which is accompanied by a 24-hour hand. This feature is a game-changer, making these pieces stand out in a crowded field of dive watches. The subtle design of the 24-hour scale, with numbers for uneven hours and triangles for even hours, is a testament to Seiko’s commitment to detail and craftsmanship.
Inside the 42mm case lies Seiko’s new in-house caliber 6R54, an automatic GMT movement that operates at 21,600vph and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The GMT hand of the watch can be independently set in one-hour increments, making it a caller GMT. While some watch enthusiasts prefer a flyer GMT, the new caliber is still an excellent choice, especially given the €1,700 price point.
The Save the Ocean Limited Edition SPB385 is the third model in the lineup and is a must-have for collectors. This watch was created to celebrate the 110th anniversary of Seiko’s first wristwatch, the Laurel. The SPB385 features a unique ice-blue dial inspired by the polar glaciers of the Arctic and Antarctic, paying homage to famous explorers like Naomi Uemura who wore Seiko watches.
The watch comes with an extra gray NATO strap, made from recycled plastic bottles using the traditional Japanese Seichu braiding technique, along with a stainless steel bracelet. It is part of the Save the Ocean series, which supports the mission to promote greater understanding and preservation of the world’s oceans. This SPB385 model joins the 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB299, also part of the same series.
Final Thoughts
The first two watches are set to become permanent fixtures in Seiko’s collection. The SPB381, with its striking green dial and matching ceramic bezel, is sure to catch the eye of any fashion-forward individual. Meanwhile, the SPB383 is all about sleek simplicity, with a black dial and ceramic bezel that exude sophistication. Both models feature a yellow GMT hand that adds a pop of color and enhances their functionality. Mark your calendars for June 2023, when these timepieces will be available for purchase at 1,700€.
But that’s not all – Seiko has something special in store for ocean conservationists and environmentalists alike. Introducing the Save the Ocean limited edition, reference SPB385. This watch not only contributes to a greater understanding of the world’s oceans and their preservation but also features a stunningly cool ice-blue textured dial that takes inspiration from the polar glaciers found in the Arctic and Antarctic. The watch comes complete with a black ceramic bezel and a dark blue GMT hand, adding a touch of sophistication to its design.
For those who are environmentally conscious, Seiko has included an additional strap made from recycled plastic bottles using the traditional Japanese braiding technique called Seichu. This limited edition version is priced at 1,900€ and limited to just 4,000 pieces.
In conclusion, Seiko’s new mechanical GMT dive watches are nothing short of breathtaking. With their attention to detail, top-of-the-line craftsmanship, and commitment to environmental conservation, these watches are sure to impress even the most discerning of watch enthusiasts. Don’t miss out on your chance to own one of these masterpieces – mark your calendars for June 2023! For more information, please visit their website.
Caliber: 6R54
Driving system: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (6 beats per second)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Number of jewels: 24
Diameter of the Movement: 27.4mm, Thickness: 5.3mm
GMT function / Independent 24-hour hand adjustment function
Specifications
Stainless steel case and bracelet with super-hard coating
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Screw-down crown, screw case back
Bezel with ceramic insert
Lumibrite on hands and indexes
Water resistance: 200m diver’s
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 42.0mm
Thickness: 12.9mm
Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button
release, secure lock, and extender
Additional recycled polyester strap included (SPB385)
Recommended retail prices::
1,700€ (SPB381, SPB383), 1,900€ (SPB385)
Limited Edition of 4,000 (SPB385)
